An easel is a useful tool for artists of all ages. Built to hold your canvas, the easel allows you to use both hands in your craft--whether you're using paint, oils, markers, crayons or even chalk. Build a secure easel that you can customize to your liking and needs and fold up for storage.
Instructions
Preparation
1. Measure the boards for cutting. Draw a line across two of the 1-inch x 3-inch boards at the center point (4 feet) of each board by lining up the framing square so that the inside and outside arms are parallel to the edge of the board.
Measure and mark two 14-inch and two 24-inch lengths on the remaining 1-inch x 3-inch board, using the framing square to ensure the lines are accurate.
2. Attaching boards to a work table with clamps ensures an accurate and safe cut.
Secure the first board to a working table, with the cut mark extending several inches beyond the table's edge. Place a loosened C-clamp around both the board and table; tighten the clamp. Secure longer boards with multiple clamps.
Repeat with every board before cutting.
3. Plug the jigsaw into a power outlet or a heavy-duty extension cord that is connected to a power outlet. Press the flat saw shoe, which surrounds the vertical blade, against the top of the board and line up the saw blade with the mark where you want to cut the board. Turn on the jigsaw and push the saw forward, keeping the blade in line with the mark on the board. When you have cut entirely through the board, let the free (waste) end drop to the floor.
Repeat this steps to cut all three boards.
4. Clamp one of the 14-inch boards to the work table using the C-clamp. Allow the board to hang over the edge of the table several inches. Use a framing square to measure and make a mark, 3/4-inch from each edge of the 14-inch board. Measure and mark the center of each board (at 1.5-inch across) to make a cross-mark on one end of the board.
Put on your goggles and drill a hole at the cross-mark with a hand drill or driver, fitted with a 3/32-inch bit. Turn on the drill; place the bit at the center of the cross mark. Push the bit straight into the wood to drill all the way through.
Repeat this step for the second 14-inch board.
5. A 3/32-inch drill bit is ideal for cutting through the wooden boards in this project.
Place the framing square against the other end of the 14-inch board to measure and mark a line 3/4-inch in from the edge of the board. Measure and mark the center of the board (1.5 inch) to create another cross mark.
Extend this mark from the center to one edge (this will become the lower edge) of the board. Measure 1/4 inch from the extended line and draw a parallel line from the center of the board to the lower edge.
Exchange the previous bit for a 1/4-inch bit. Place the tip of this bit between the parallel lines and squeeze the trigger to drill a hole where the two lines intersect.
Repeat this step for the second 14-inch board.
6. Clamp the 14-inch board to the work table with a C-clamp to secure it for cutting, with several inches extending over the edge of the table. Place the saw shoe against the flat of the board and line up the saw blade with one of the parallel lines on the board. Put on your goggles before turning on the saw and moving it forward, from the edge of the board to the 1/4-inch drill hole in the center.
Repeat this cut for the parallel line on the board to cut out a 1/4-inch notch.
Repeat these steps for the second 14-inch board.
Building
7. Line up two of the 4-foot boards end to end. Place a triangle hinge so that the pivot point rests between the edges of the boards and the wings sit flat atop the boards. Use a pencil to mark the position of the holes in the hinges on the boards.
Fit the drill with a 7/64-inch bit and drill holes at each of the pencils marks on the board (with the hinge removed). Replace the hinge, aligning the holes with the drill holes in the boards.
Attach the hinges by inserting 3/4-inch #10 screws through the hinges and into the drill holes and securing them.
Repeat these steps for the remaining 4-foot boards.
8. Stand up both sets of boards so that the flat side of the boards face you, with the hinges at the top; these boards will be the legs of the easel. Separate the pairs of legs by two feet. Measure the vertical midpoint of the boards (24-inch) on each board and line up one of the 24-inch boards across the face of the legs so the ends are flush with the outer edges of the boards and the top is at the 24-inch mark to create the cross brace.
Place a 3/32-inch bit on the drill and create two holes at either end of the structure, through the cross brace and into the legs. Drilling the holes so they are diagonally across from each other will make the structure more secure. Use a drill or screwdriver to insert 1/4-inch #8 screws into these holes and secure.
Repeat these steps to attach a cross brace to the other side of the easel.
9. Open the legs wide enough so that you can place one of the 14-inch boards across the side of the structure to create the side bracket, with the notch-side down. The top of the side bracket should be flush with the top of the cross braces you just attached.
Mark the side of the legs of the easel with a pencil, through the holes and slots you already created on the side brackets.
Repeat this step for the other side of the easel.
10. Use a 3/32-inch bit with your drill to create holes in the legs of your easel at these points.
Attach the side brackets by inserting a 1 1/4-inch screw through the hole in the bracket and sliding a washer over the screw on the other side of the bracket. Line up the tip of the screw with the hole in the easel leg and attach it with a drill or screwdriver. Be sure to leave the screw loose enough so the bracket can swing up and down.
Drive a screw partially into the other hole in the leg, allowing it to extend approximately 3/4 inch. The notch on the lower edge of the side bracket will slide over this screw to secure the easel.
Repeat this step for the other side bracket.
